A First Time Visiting Glorious Africa

Best Ugandan Adventure with Heart Rock Adventure

I had been anticipating this trip for as long as I can remember. My main goal was to see the almost extinct gorillas in Uganda. However, I was overjoyed that our adventure gave us a fully immersive experience into all things Africa. We were surprised to see all the animals we had heard about for years and only seen in sad zoos, and the vast topography of the rolling hills to the savannahs and the African outback bush. The land, food, and people were so welcoming and warm, it made this trip one that will not leave me anytime soon and has me wanting to return to this wondrous continent.

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Arrival and First Impressions

As we landed at Entebbe International Airport, the anticipation of exploring Uganda – the Pearl of Africa – filled me with excitement. A friendly tour guide named Moses from Home to Africa welcomed us warmly, and we made our way to the hotel. The drive offered glimpses of everyday life in Uganda, from bustling markets to lush greenery along the roadside. Arriving at the accommodation, we settled in and took time to unwind, adjusting to the new time zone and preparing for the adventures ahead.

Ugandan adventure

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary and Murchison Falls National Park

The morning brought an early start as we set off for Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. The sanctuary is a haven for Uganda’s endangered rhinos, and the on-foot tracking experience was both exhilarating and intimidating. Walking quietly through the bush, guided by rangers, we encountered these magnificent animals up close, learning about conservation efforts to protect them. We learned that an armed guard always accompanies them, not to interfere with the animals but to protect them from poachers. After an eventful morning, we proceeded to Murchison Falls National Park, the jewel of Uganda’s wildlife parks. We took a short walk down to the tops of the falls and bathed in the endless mist that sprayed our faces and covered our clothes. The falls are the capstone of my favorite part of the entire trip. Every animal you could imagine inhabits this fairly small but vast park, and the drive was punctuated by sightings of Uganda’s diverse landscapes – from rolling plains to dense forests – setting the stage for the wildlife encounters to come.

As the afternoon progressed, we decided to take a short trip through the park to see anything interesting. As we rounded our first bend in the park and headed down a rugged two-tire track, we were told to keep a lookout for warthogs, elephants, giraffes, water buffalo, lions, and, if we were extremely lucky, the elusive leopard. Well, lucky we were, our first sighting was a female and male leopard strolling gracefully across the road right in front of us. We tried to follow them, but they elegantly disappeared moments later into the security of the tall grass and were not to be seen again. Our guide almost jumped for joy and let us know that typically you only find these wonderous creatures in the trees. We were so fortunate to see them on the ground and so close to us. After that encounter, things just got better and better. We saw a lion lounging in a tree, tons of herds of elephants, and water buffalo. Giraffes strolled lazily along the tall trees, taking in all the leaves they could handle, and we were awestruck by the sheer volume of animals in such close proximity.

After our wonderful night at Elephant Hab Lodge, as we were waking up to the sounds of nature, we embarked on an early morning game drive across Murchison Falls National Park. Being that the day before was nothing short of epic, our expectations were very high to see all these creatures again. The vast expanse of the park unfolded before us, as we watched more elephants grazing in the distance, warthogs dodging about, and hartebeest and impala running all around. The thrill of spotting these animals in their natural habitat was matched only by the stunning scenery of the Nile River winding through the park.

After a hearty lunch, we embarked on a boat trip upstream to the base of Murchison Falls. Cruising along the Nile, we marveled at the sight of hippos wallowing in the water and crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks. The boat journey culminated at the foot of the powerful Murchison Falls, where the Nile crashes through a narrow gorge with breathtaking force. As evening approached, we ventured out on an afternoon game drive to seek out the elusive hyenas and leopards. We were not as lucky during the afternoon, but the abundance of wildlife far exceeded my wildest expectations.

Kibale Forest National Park – Chimpanzee Forest

After a delicious morning breakfast, we embarked on a scenic drive towards Kibale Forest National Park, passing through picturesque countryside dotted with tea plantations and rolling hills. The journey was a feast for the eyes, offering glimpses of rural life and stunning vistas at every turn. Along every roadside were hundreds of people walking to gather daily supplies of food or fetching water from the community well. It was humbling to see that most people had no other transportation than their feet. Arriving at the edge of Kibale Forest, we settled into our accommodation, surrounded by the tranquility of the forest and the rolling hills, and enjoyed our time lounging at the beautiful Chimpanzee Lodge.

After a restful night’s sleep, today was dedicated to exploring the wonders of Kibale Forest, starting with a thrilling chimpanzee trekking adventure. Guided by experienced rangers, we ventured not very deep into the forest in search of these charismatic primates. The forest echoed with the calls of chimpanzees as we followed their trail, trudging through swamps and dodging wet dew on the trees. Eventually, we came face to face with a lively troop swinging through the trees. Spending time in their presence was a privilege, observing their social interactions and playful antics. We were lucky enough to see them move from the treetops to the forest floor, allowing us to get a close-up look at our distant cousins. The babies were, of course, my favorite, and watching how they tested their limits with their parents reminded me of times past when my boys were young toddlers.

The day ended with encounters with local communities and a hike around the crater lakes, offering insights into their traditional way of life and a deeper appreciation for the region’s cultural heritage. As we strolled through various communities, we learned that bananas were a huge part of everyday life in Uganda. In Uganda, bananas are a staple food and a significant part of the agricultural landscape, with over 80 different banana species cultivated across the country. The majority of bananas consumed, however, are hybrids of two main species: Musa acuminata and Musa balbisiana. Cultivars derived from Musa acuminata are primarily dessert bananas. These sweet bananas are the same variety commonly found in shops worldwide, enjoyed for their soft texture and sugary flavor, making them ideal for eating raw or adding to desserts. On the other hand, cultivars derived from Musa balbisiana are known as plantains. Unlike dessert bananas, plantains are starchy and less sweet, making them more suitable for cooking. Plantains are a versatile ingredient in many Ugandan dishes, often boiled, fried, or roasted to complement a variety of meals. Their starchy nature means they hold up well to cooking, retaining their structure and providing a hearty, filling component to dishes. In addition to these two main types, Ugandan farmers also cultivate numerous other banana varieties, each with unique characteristics and uses. These include varieties specifically grown for brewing local banana beer, as well as those used in traditional dishes like matoke, a savory dish made from steamed and mashed bananas. The diversity of banana species and their hybrids in Uganda highlights the fruit’s importance not only as a food source but also as a cultural and economic cornerstone of the country. Every meal in we had in Uganda incorporated some variety of banana.

As we continued to explore the Kibale crater lakes, each a serene oasis nestled amidst rolling hills, we hiked to the “top of the world,” an abandoned home at the top of the largest lake. We were rewarded with panoramic views of the crater lakes below and the lush green landscape stretching into the distance. A sudden rainstorm stopped us for a while but gave us the chance to take in the sheer beauty of this glorious country.

Photo courtesy Zac Renner Photography

Queen Elizabeth National Park

Next up was our visit to Queen Elizabeth National Park. We arrived in time for a leisurely lunch before embarking on an afternoon game drive. The park’s diverse ecosystems unfolded before us, from open savannahs to dense forests, each home to a unique array of wildlife. The Kasenyi plains provided ample sightings of elephants, buffalo, and antelope species, and our favorite of all—lions. This part of the park features vast open plains with a few scattered trees and some brush for cover.

About halfway into the park, we saw about four vehicles parked right in the road, and to our surprise, there were five young male lions and a lone female. They were all sunning themselves on the road and off to the side. All the vehicles did their best to give the lions a good berth, but these creatures were not scared of us at all. They continued about their day as if we were not even there.

After about ten minutes of watching the group, the lioness got up and strolled down the road toward our vehicle. We expected her to walk right by, and it was a bit intimidating to see this powerful girl stroll by and then decide to take a rest right on our running boards. She was so close you could have reached out to pet her. Thank God we were not that stupid, but seeing this dangerous creature so close to our very accessible open-air vehicle was nothing short of breathtaking and horrifying. It was an experience to cherish forever. Returning to our accommodation, we reflected on the day’s adventures, surrounded by the sights and sounds of the African wilderness.

After another great night in our lovely accommodations, we got an early start on a morning game drive through Queen Elizabeth National Park’s Kasenyi plains. The cool morning air was alive with the calls of birds and the rustling of wildlife as we scanned the horizon for sightings of big cats and grazing herds. We were lucky enough to see the same pride of lions and got the opportunity to witness just how powerful they really are as they strolled up to another vehicle, being a bit playful with the back tire. Suddenly we heard a loud pop and hiss, and the tire was instantly flat as a pancake. Talk about being between a rock and a hard place! However, the experienced guide casually drove away to a safe location and changed the tire in no time.

Returning to the lodge for a hearty breakfast, we embarked on a leisurely boat trip along the Kazinga Channel. This natural waterway connects Lake George and Lake Edward, teeming with wildlife such as hippos, elephants, crocodiles, and countless bird species. The tranquil cruise offered close-up encounters with these animals in their aquatic habitat, complemented by stunning views of the park’s shoreline. As the sun set, we savored a final dinner overlooking the channel, reflecting on the diversity and beauty of Queen Elizabeth National Park.

The next day we journeyed through the Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park, renowned for its tree-climbing lions. The chance to spot these iconic predators added an element of excitement to our scenic drive towards Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. We were not lucky enough to see them on this trip, but the other animals that dotted the savannah were more than enough for us.

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

The trip through the winding hills and massive elevation gain to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, renowned for its population of mountain gorillas, heightened our anticipation as we approached the mist-covered mountains that form their sanctuary. Arriving at our lodge, nestled in the heart of the forest, we settled in for an evening of relaxation.

At the Four Gorillas Lodge, we enjoyed an evening cocktail on the patio and indulged in the most amazing food we had experienced thus far. Then it was off to bed as we eagerly awaited the primary reason for our trip.

The next morning, the day we had eagerly awaited arrived – gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. After a briefing from our ranger guide, we set off into the dense rainforest in search of these gentle giants. The trek itself was an adventure, navigating steep terrain and dense vegetation, guided by the calls and movements of the gorilla families. Initially, we were unable to find our group right away. It turns out they were feuding with another rival group, and we had to wait until things settled down to approach the more habituated clan. Finally, after hours of hiking the steepest, most unforgiving terrain I have ever encountered, we came upon our group of gorillas peacefully foraging and interacting in their natural habitat. As we ventured down the ravine to get a closer look, the smell was overpowering, reminiscent of skunk spray and really bad body odor.

The flies swarming around seemed attracted to the stench but never bothered us, merely buzzing around without landing near us. Spending an hour with these magnificent creatures was a humbling experience, forging a connection with our closest relatives in the animal kingdom. Observing their mannerisms and interactions with each other and ourselves was fascinating. Knowing that there are only a little over a thousand mountain gorillas left on this earth made me reflect on how humans have had both positive and negative impacts on many creatures in this world. “Humbled” is the only word I can use to describe this experience. If you ever have the chance to see this wonder, take it. It will be something you will never forget and never regret.

After lunch, we bid farewell to Bwindi and traveled to Lake Bunyonyi, a tranquil haven framed by terraced hills and dotted with picturesque islands.

Lake Bunyonyi

 

Our time at Lake Bunyonyi was spent in peaceful exploration and cultural immersion. After the long hike earlier that morning, we were exhausted, and a nice cold beer along with lounging by the lakeside was just what we needed. The next morning, we took a boat ride across the lake, introducing us to its myriad islands, each with its own story and beauty. We also explored a local school on the island where children from all over the valley came to live and study during the school year. The classrooms were meager, but it was clear they were well-used and encouraging. Engaging with the local community offered insights into their traditional way of life, with opportunities to learn about their crafts and traditions. The day was a perfect blend of relaxation and discovery, surrounded by the natural splendor of Uganda’s “place of many little birds.”

Lake Mburo National Park

Continuing our journey, we arrived at our last stop, Lake Mburo National Park, known for its diverse wildlife and scenic landscapes. An afternoon game drive revealed the park’s inhabitants, from zebras and a large herd of giraffes grazing on the plains to antelopes darting through the bush. As night fell, we embarked on a thrilling night game drive, venturing into the park’s nocturnal world. Spotlights illuminated an elusive leopard, which we were able to track and watch as it stalked its prey for the night. As dusk turned into night, we heard the calls of owls softly in the darkness, creating a sense of mystery and wonder.

On our final morning in Uganda, we began with a bush walk through Lake Mburo National Park, guided by a knowledgeable ranger. The walk offered intimate encounters with zebras, giraffes, and other wildlife, set against the backdrop of the park’s rolling hills and shimmering lakes. Being on foot and so close to these majestic creatures felt like being on another world. The mist surrounded us as the sun slowly rose over the savannah, creating a truly ethereal feeling. From the trail’s summit, we marveled at panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, reflecting on the journey that had brought us here. Returning to the Hyena Hill Lodge, we bid farewell to Uganda’s wilderness, embarking on the journey back to Entebbe Airport, filled with memories of wildlife encounters, breathtaking landscapes, and the warm hospitality that had defined our Ugandan adventure.

As I boarded my flight home, I carried with me not only photographs and memories but a deep appreciation for Uganda’s natural wonders and the unforgettable experiences that had touched my heart. Uganda truly is the Pearl of Africa, a treasure trove of biodiversity and cultural richness waiting to be explored.